As he wandered around the peaceful Himalayan coffee shop in
Dharamsala, India, muttering to himself and to what must have been his
invisible companions, laughing at seemingly random intervals, speaking barely
decipherable French, and offering cigarettes to toddlers, I couldn't help but
believe that this lone, filthy, mentally unstable drifter would be the craziest and
most terrifying person I would encounter that day. It seemed obvious to
even the least observant among us that this man suffered from some form of
schizophrenia, the type that made you believe he should not be anywhere other
than in a locked and padded room. He proceeded to occupy two separate tables, ordering nothing, occasionally feigning to momentarily read a newspaper that was neither local nor recent at one table and continuing his solitary conversation at the other. Seasoned travelers that we are, no more than
a wary look and agreeable nods were needed as my cousin Nate and I armed
ourselves with the mismatched cutlery, ceramic plates, and writing utensils
that were at our immediate disposal while we waited for the point
during our simple breakfast when one of us would accidentally look, eat, talk,
or do something disagreeable to our unstable French associate that would set
off his inevitable murder spree for the day. At that point we would have no choice other
than to fend him off with butter knives and a space pen (the latter, sadly,
being our most effective tool at the moment). To our great fortune, everyone at
the coffee shop escaped unharmed that morning. Eventually, he wandered off,
after neither eating nor drinking anything (but he did chain smoke the better
part of a pack of cigarettes), and we counted ourselves fortunate that we had
escaped his momentary reign of terror. Little did we know that our freedom
would be short-lived, and soon enough, the omen of molestation that we glimpsed
that morning would return that same evening, and in force.
During our many meanderings up and down the streets and hills of
Dharamsala, Nate and I became familiar with many locals in this peaceful, compact village
of not quite 20,000. We had tea regularly with a shop-owner from Amritsar. We never passed on an opportunity to
shoot the breeze with the many Kashmiri pashmina salesmen just starting on
their Ramadan fasts, offering them a friendly "salaam alaikum" or
"Ramadan kareem." Even the man who begged because he was cursed with
malformed feet and the man with a similar affliction of the hands came to know
us and stopped harassing us for food or money, which is a particularly
satisfying feeling as we were then able to observe them pleading their cases
with the new tourists in town while we, more often than not, escaped unscathed.
There was also one local Tibetan man who wandered around each of the two
winding streets in Dharamsala, but also could be regularly found at one of the busier
intersections advertising a traditional Tibetan cultural demonstration at the primary
school just down the hill. Always wearing his Tibetan flag t-shirt and a warm,
welcoming demeanor, he politely invited every passerby to come and enjoy the
show starring a local Tibetan celebrity (which, I do realize, is a rather niche
category).
After missing the first show, we counted ourselves fortunate
that there was to be an encore performance that very evening of the day that we
narrowly escaped the aforementioned "murder in self-defense" episode.
We reasoned that If we again neglected our chance to enjoy a traditional cultural
performance we would regret it. At the time, we did not realize how innocently juxtaposed that intention was.
As it would turn out, there was very little culture to be missed, and we
certainly regretted something, but a simple explanation does not do justice,
please, allow me to elaborate.
We showed up five minutes early to the primary school and were
led into what appeared to be the assembly/meeting area. There were four planks
to sit on that were maybe three inches off of the floor and draped in empty
rice sacks. Not wishing to appear over-eager for anything, we took seats in the
second row. As more tourists filed in, we grew anxious to see this
"Tibetan celebrity." Other than the tourists, the person in the
room was the gentleman we had seen advertising the show on the corner earlier
that day. It soon became apparent that he was
the celebrity we had all been waiting for. The sandwich board man was
the celebrity.
The performance began with a heart-warming story about how at
the age of 15, the Lion Man (as he had been nicknamed by a spectator of his
"show" long ago) fled Lhasa to escape the oppressive situation in the
Tibetan Autonomous Region (as it is now known, most importantly, to China). He
showed us the one and only photo he owned of him in Lhasa. It showed him as a
young boy seated on a small horse, and seated on another was his brother. They
were posed in front of the Potala (for those of you unfamiliar with it, this
was the building that served as the residence of the Dalai Lama, the seat of
the Tibetan government, and the spiritual hub). Using broken English and
speaking ever so hesitantly, innocently, and endearingly, the Lion Man detailed
his harrowing journey from oppression in Tibet to eventual freedom in India.
Even though it was a story I have heard many different times and from many different
people, it was still a touching and humbling experience. He then went on to
explain that while maybe he wasn't the best, most polished dancer, he had a
dream to learn more and to share his knowledge of Tibetan cultural dances with
young Tibetans in exile, a truly admirable aspiration.
We quickly realized that "not the best" and
"unpolished" were descriptions that were applied generously in this
case. He wasn't great, or even
good, but he danced with energy and heart, and those of us that stayed appreciated
at least that much. Although, after about twenty minutes of watching him spin
in circles, breaking the monotony only to change directions...once, we all
began to question the sanity of our decisions to stay.
Each audience member was granted more time than they were
remotely comfortable with to do their best to gaze into the terrifying soul of
the Lion Man. Once he finished, we all glanced around the room and breathed a
momentary sigh of relief. We walked into that school as strangers, but through
our shared experience we would leave friends, but we wouldn't leave quite yet.
The Lion Man still had two performances for us...
The next number was designed to showcase the great strength of
the Lion Man (at least, that's what I gathered since nothing else really happened).
At first one-by-one, but progressing to pairs and to eventually groups of three, four, and
five, we were all brought to the front of the room to be arranged into awkward
poses and hoisted into the air by the Lion Man. Now to give him some credit, the Lion
Man is not a big man, so this was sometimes impressive even while it was always
uncomfortable. It was quite the feat when he lifted both Nate and I (who,
combined, are sadly pushing close to 400 lbs), and spun us around like we were
performing the most horrific version of Swan Lake you can imagine. All I
managed to utter was, "We're two fat men! You shouldn't be doing
this!". Through carefully planned arrangements of people that included too
many heads in too many crotches, he managed to pick everyone up, except for the
group of five, but I think that was more of a balance issue.
I am more than tempted to take this opportunity to wander into
some sort of social commentary about the degradation and evolution of culture
and the effects on a small, rather homogenous population, but that would be a disservice
to the Lion Man and the community he resides in. It would either over-simplify the
Lion Man's "performance," or drastically over-complicate it. They say
there is a thin line between madness and genius. I'm pretty sure we saw that
line crossed back and forth dozens of times that evening. He was certainly
aiming to use some corrupted form of modernist techniques to get some sort of
idea across or to elicit a reaction (I think and hope). I can't say that I understood it, but I do
know that much modern art aims to leave each viewer with a unique and lingering
impression. I'd like to say the Lion Man is anything but an artist, that he was
nothing more than a raving lunatic, however here I am, months later, writing about lingering
feelings of...well...I'm not to sure. Regret, amazement, confusion,
fascination, and fear barely begin to scratch the surface. To that, I can say
nothing other than, "Good show Lion Man. Good show."
